The Art of Craftsmanship
SHORTCLIPS
An Art That Nearly Drifted Into Oblivion
IsabelleFa establishes world standards for the art of chain-goldsmithing. To the present day, traditional craftsmanship techniques are consistently used in the manufacture for the production of chains, collars and bangles. During several weeks, sometimes even months, the scrupulous handwork is carried out step by step by skillful masters to produce just one piece of jewellery. The handcraft that almost drifted into oblivion is incomparable with mass production in terms of beauty and quality.
Recycled Gold
Every 18 karat gold alloy is different. At IsabelleFa, all gold alloys are melted exclusively in-house. Century-old knowledge and our own developed gold alloys are the ingredients of the secret recipe for the excellent material properties of our jewellery pieces. Moreover, our gold colours have become distinctive trademarks. For example, elegant and warm “RougeRoyal” - our patented red gold alloy. In the manufacture of IsabelleFa we only use recycled gold from certified sources.
Tools, No Machines
Rolling mills, presses and drawing benches, some of which are 100 years old, master the bars and tubes made of gold and platinum. For most people it is hard to imagine the tremendous force we use to forge our pieces. The noble surfaces are pressed exceedingly within these steps. The quality and the later deep gloss, both stand in no comparison with simple casted jewellery.
Rolling Mill
Once the gold and platinum sheets have been rolled, they are cut to a particular size and shaped into a tube. This is a pivotal moment since the seam must be as invisible as possible. With the help of a huge collection of old drawing plates and dies the traditional goldsmith’s handcraft is used to create modern jewellery pieces.
Distinctive Quality
While thin materials are common in modern ways of jewellery production, in order to spare weight and thus costs, at IsabelleFa, we use materials of substantial thicknesses that make our jewellery pieces less susceptible to traces of wear and endues them with the distinctive weight.
Feel: Solid material thicknesses make the jewellery less susceptible to wear marks and give it a pleasant weight.
The Art of Craftsmanship
Each IsabelleFa jewellery piece requires enormous strength and a lot of tact. Collars and bangles are first bent into the rough shape by pure muscle power. And then the fine adjustment begins: with powerful and targeted hammer strikes, each piece acquires the individual fit of its wearer by being forged according to customer wishes.
Enormous Force and Temperatures
For most people it is hard to imagine the enormous force and temperatures we expose our jewellery pieces to during their creation. A collar, for example, is annealed for a long time at up to 1000C° - to achieve the perfect material density.
Winding
The step from the precious metal tube to the eyelet requires just as much skill as muscle strength. The tube or hinge, which has been drawn into a specific shape beforehand, is wound over a spindle that defines the later shape of the individual chain links.
Sawing and Joining
The winding is opened on one side with a straight saw cut. Now individual chain links has been created - separated and twisted. Single chain links will be joined by hooking one onto another to create a whole chain.
Soldering
All links are joined and soldered manually, link by link. A special technique developed by the experienced Maîtres Chaînistes (from French: master chain-maker) enables the chain to be perfectly straight and not twisted.
Aligning
Every jewellery wearer knows: “Every chain is only as strong as its weakest link” - that's why every IsabelleFa chain is also subjected to a stress test during the so-called "aligning" process. After this step, the chain is perfectly straight and very soft to the touch.
Creating a Curb Chain / Gourmette
To create a curb chain (or gourmette chain) our goldsmith needs an immense muscle power to twist a classic trace chain. It is indeed fascinating - especially when the power of two goldsmiths is required at the same time to craft a big curb chain bracelet.
Neatening
The key points of neatening jewellery are patience and accuracy. For this step we have invented our own techniques to achieve the perfect result. During an elaborate manual work each chain link will be neatened from both inside and outside. The smoother the chain element and the soldering seams are, the longer the lifespan of a chain will be. In the end, every chain should impress you with its quality, beauty and with being soft to the touch.
The Clasp
Even the functional elements of our jewellery pieces are created individually and by hand. The clasps are designed and crafted to match each piece. To achieve the flawless result, we place a high priority on every little detail. Integrity and perfectionism inspire us to keep raising the bar. Just listen to the tone with which an IsabelleFa collar or bangle close
Hear: Listen very consciously to the sound of the bracelet closing and the sound of the individual chain elements.
The Single Diamond
The single diamond is a signature of IsabelleFa. One can find it in the chain clasp or also hidden on the inner surface of a ring.
Diamond Pavé
Diamond pavés enhance every piece of jewellery. They must be harmonious in colour as well as be perfectly set. Therefore, diamond pavés are set under the microscope by the skillful hands of an experienced stone setter.
The Flacon Hall-Mark
The hall-mark of IsabelleFa has the shape of a flacon. This signature seal of quality is inspired by a perfume flacon and was created by Isabelle Mössner herself. It completes a masterpiece and highlights its uniqueness. The hall-mark is a symbol of exclusivity, appreciation and the highest standards of goldsmithing. At the same time, the signet stands for the promise that the piece of jewellery was made entirely by hand in Eisingen / Germany.
Polishing by Hand
With countless polishing brushes, fine leather straps and pastes, the initially matt surface is polished to the finest high gloss. At this point, all the advantages of traditional drawing and rolling techniques, which have extremely densified the surfaces, become clear. This is the only way to achieve the typical and fascinating deep shine. There is no comparison to casted jewellery. Every millimeter of a bangle or collar and every single chain link is finely polished inside and outside. Time-consuming handwork is worthwhile: such a mirror finish can never be achieved with machine polishing.
Jewellery brands and designers are increasingly becoming targets of counterfeiters. If you would like to know whether it is an original piece of jewellery from our manufacture, please contact us.
Small signs of wear are usually unavoidable in everyday life. Please contact us if you would like to have your polish renewed.
For any questions, IsabelleFa advisors are at your disposal (Monday to Friday, 9 AM to 6 PM). Get in touch with us via contact form, email or telephone.